we leave the camping el bierzo and try to find our way back onto the camino, cutting across country and finding villafranca del bierzo. maurice has a coffee, while all around are cyclists eating eating breakfast, waiting for the mountains up to el cebreiro to shrink.

we head off to see what awaits us! we follow the valley, with the new a coruna motorway jumping from hill to hill above our heads. at vega de valcarece, a local advises us to continue on the camino along the valley and avoid the N6. 5 kilometres shorter- but steeper! 11 kilometres of climbing face us, and arriving at the summet in laguna de castilla is a beautiful experience. cool water in the fountain and nice relaxed people in the refuge. onwards, and up to el cebreiro, another 2 km off road to arrive in the ultimate tourist village. we bump into the carlos and michelle againl in a small restaurant. they have found each other again and are to continue onto santiago together. they advise us to have the <<quieso con miel>> a local delicasy and then disappear.

afterwards, we have a siesta in the grounds of the church, and at 18.00 feel refreshed enough to go further. we descend and climb twice more. at the latter summet, we have a celebratory drink! and freewheel 10km down into triacastela. we camp outside the refuge after a friendly welcome from out fellow celts in galicia.