the next morning, we leave portomarin cylcing towards what the guide calls a <<col>>. we climb for the next few kilometres. both our bodies are much fitter than at the start, yet neither of our bodies seem to have the vigour required to make short work of it. we could go all out and reach santiago today, or take it easy and split the remaining stretch.

we opt for the latter, calling a halt at ribadiso de riba, where we camp in the garden of the magnificently renovated former fifteenth century hospital. the campsite is shared with some sheep who look over the fence and stick their tongues out at maurice spots carlos and michelle, and leave them in each other's company. later, we listen to a group of spanish teenagers having a sing along outside the dormitory before retiring to our tent for the last time. tomorrow, we promise to stay in a pension.